Colorado and Utah

Thursday, I was in Southwestern Colorado. 

I drove to Mesa Verde National Park and quickly visited the museum.  The cliff dwellings are probably a must-see, but I'd reached my limit being folded up in the driver's seat.  Cole wouldn't be able to get out onto the trails and I couldn't tolerate driving around at 30 mph following RV's for two hours around the park. 
The drive through Cortez, CO was not a waste.  I saw gorgeous snow capped mountains.  And, the park ranger gave me directions to a trailhead where she takes her dogs. 

Welcome to Canyon of the Ancients National Monument, a huge area preserved for its massive archeological value.

10.5 miles of bliss. 

A two story high house up on a ledge built around 1200 AD.

Views from the Sand Canyon and the East Rock Trails.

Other than one Canadian and one German dog, people on the trail: 0.

Unbelievable!

A hardy little flower.

Not wanting to leave this place either!

Back on the roads again, back roads, that is!  Any which way I can avoid a highway.  Even if it means driving around obstacles.

On my way to Utah.

Chaco Culture National Historic Park

The West is still wild. 

On one two mile stretch of road, there were 10 road killed deer.  Big ones, not Golden Retriever size like Alabamian deer.

Highways are segmented by cattle guards intended to keep cattle in certain districts.  Some herds are free ranging, others break out of their fenced ranges and are only rounded up yearly.  Driving can be a full contact sport.

 

 

 



 

 

They're not exaggerating!

 

 



 

 

 

This Hereford seemed to be hiding, waiting to jump out in front of me.

 

 

 

 

Passed a 20 member herd of elk.

 

Finally, I was getting closer to Chaco Canyon National Monument. 75 miles from modern civilization... Only 13 more miles of rutted, washboard dirt roads.

 

 

 

Nothing around but cattle and abandoned houses.  This one got my attention.

 

 

 

Chaco Canyon is located in the Northwest corner of New Mexico.  Starting in 850 AD, the canyon became the cultural center of Puebloan culture.  Until 1200 AD, the region was the hub of trade between tribes and the center for ceremonies.  The Chacoan had already mastered astronomy, geometry and masonry. And one lost sailor called Columbus thought he'd discovered a primitive land! 

 

 

 

The canyon couldn't support a large population due to the ruggedness of the land which didn't lend itself well to agriculture.  Archeologists believe that Chaco was a hub for religion and government with a constant small population and the capacity for the influx of huge numbers of pilgrims and traders.

 

 

 

The canyon is a sacred place to Chacoan decendants, Hopi, Zuni, Acoma, among others.  Dogs are not permitted to enter the ruins, understandably.  I was not disappointed because our run gave me the best views of the canyon, how perfectly aligned the buildings were, how straight the Chacoan roads in the canyon.  

 

 

 

Over 9 miles of rugged terrain, sheer drop offs. No, Cole wasn't allowed to chase rabbits off the edge of mesas.

 

 

 

 

Photos don't do it justice.  An utter sense of awe is felt with every view.

 

 

 

There is something magical about the canyon.  Only once before have I had a deep feeling of belonging, a real connection with a place.  When I was on a solo hiking trip in Northern Ireland a few years ago, the majesty and history of places can invade you.

 

 

 

I saw only a handful of other people, none atop the mesas.  The rangers live on the premises due to its isolated location and due to the fact that the park is often unreachable after rains making the roads impassible.

 

 

 

This picture was taken before Cole panicked and wedged himself sideways in the crevice. 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

OK, you may need to take my word for it, but the petroglyphs were incredible.  They used them to document their lives, but also to chart the equinoxes.

 

It was hard to leave.

 

 

 

Seeing it at dusk was a once in a lifetime experience.

 

 

 

I managed to drive to Bloomfield to crash for the night.  I wandered into the agricultural fairgrounds looking for a place to camp.  The security guard allowed me to park for free on the banks of the San Juan River.  The grounds were locked up at 10 PM and only reopened at 6 AM.  I was snug as a bug being the only one on a hundred acres.

 

 

 

At sunrise, I left to tour some more in the beautiful Four Corners area.

 

 

 

 

 





New Mexico

Fall must be the best time to visit the Southwest.  No crowds, great weather.

The vistas are absolutely breathtaking.  Ecological diversity withevery 1000 feet of elevation change and with every 100 miles in any direction. Desert floor to subalpine mountains...botanist's dream.

Monday morning I awoke in a box canyon on the shores of the Pecos river, in Villanueva State Park, NM.

Our run was more of a rock scramble!

By late afternoon I was in Santa Fe.  This city knows how to preserve its architectural heritage. Three main styles exist here:  Pueblo (or Pueblo Revival), Territorial and Northern New Mexico.  All new construction (apartments, shops, homes, ect.) must conform to  either of the first two styles.  Everywhere the eye sweeps is an unbroken harmony of styles. I had a bunch of pictures but the computer gnomes discarded them.  Go figure.

250 art galleries and museums, mostly in the pedestrian friendly downtown.  I spent hours looking through all the gallery windows.  Cole was very patient.  3 large health food stores were within a couple blocks of each other.  Yup, I like this town.  Super friendly people, a little on the zany side!

Cole having lunch in the dining hall/sleeping quarters/ backseat of the Hyundai RV.

I spent the remainder of the daylight at a Laundromat and left Santa Fe after dusk.  All the signs warning of free range cattle finally unnerved me enough to force me to stop at an inn in Abiquiu.  After only spending money on gas and one overnight camping fee of $10, I was reluctant to open my wallet!  Feeling miserly.

In retrospect, I was happy to be seeing this countryside the next morning.  The famous painter, Georgia O'Keeffe, lived in the valley for decades.  Now, I understand why:  the landscape colors are indescribably vivid, impossible reds, vibrant yellows and skies so blue.

"I have this longing to live in one place and call it home forever, but some part of me requires longing, rather than the satisfaction of that longing".  Carl Phillips

Day 2: OK Bound and Beyond

Passing through Oklahoma on Sunday I found Greenleaf State Park.  What a gem!

6.5 mile run, over a suspension bridge too!

Second hot shower of the day and supper picnic by the lake.  Day 2 and I'm lovin' it!

I kept the car at 80 mph heading West on I-40.  Around midnight, I crept into Elk City Park (a free camping spot recommended to me).
And this what I awoke to see find the next day.  A huge flock of geese were in the lake.

So far, I am completely enchanted with my mini RV.  It is comfortable and less of a hassle to set up a tent and move bedding I and out.

Back on the road, I headed across Texas.  Outside of Amarillo, The Cadillac Ranch is a tacky, but fun stop.

Amateur graffiti is encouraged.

My can misfired (or is it the operator?) and coated the screen protector of my cell phone.  Yes, I am gifted!


By afternoon, I was driving into Santa Rosa Lake State Park, New Mexico.  At roughly 4700 feet elevation you get a grand view of the juniper and pinon mesas surrounding the Army Corps of Engineers 3700 acre lake.

8 mile run. 

Running with Captain Oblivious, he didn't even see the 3" tarantula, even after I tried to point it out to him.  He was far too busy sniffing for hares.

When I ran back past the campground, a man was crouched over the ground taking pictures. 

A fresh mountain lion track. He said that they come down from the trail I ran (gulp) at night, cross the campground and head down to the lake to drink and hunt. OK, we're moving on to another campground!

Villanueva State Park was only 45 miles or so to the North, but the twisted dark road delayed my progress.  I tore in at 5 minutes to 7 PM, just as they were locking the gates.

I love New Mexico! Even if it is 28'F in the mornings.